On the road with Tara Povey: touring Atlantic Canada by RV

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Atlantic Canada surprised me with how familiar it felt — not because it copies Ireland, but because its culture and history are deeply entwined with our own. I spent a week in September driving a motorhome around Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia to see those links, listen to the music and taste the local produce for myself.

Celtic ties that still echo

The island’s Irish connections date back centuries. According to the Embassy of Ireland, fishermen from Wexford and Waterford visited the Grand Banks of Newfoundland as early as the mid-17th century. Over time, many settled in places such as the Avalon Peninsula and Bonavista Bay, and St. John’s became a hub for further migration across Canada.

Halifax has its own Irish imprint: at one time about a third of the city’s residents were born in Ireland, and a Celtic Cross near the waterfront commemorates settlers who arrived in 1749. Today, you can still find céilís, lively folk sessions and Irish pubs where the music would not feel out of place back home.

Prince Edward Island’s agricultural identity is similarly familiar. As Canada’s top potato producer, PEI sells everything from potato-based toiletries to novelty plush toys — and even chocolate-covered crisps. It’s a local obsession with roots in place and tradition.

Celtic Colours, the province-spanning festival in October, keeps Gaelic song, storytelling and dance very much alive.

Motorhome travel: a relaxed pace and warm welcomes

Hiring an RV is an easy way to move between towns while meeting locals. I was shown the basics by the Canadream team at pick-up, which made driving a larger vehicle far less daunting.

RV campers gathered together at a campsite, sharing a moment
Motorhome travel fosters genuine community on the road

Life on the road felt comfortable and sociable. Camp neighbours helped with hookups, shared walks and tips, and invited me for tea. One man, Ernie, showed me the ropes at a PEI site and joined a sunrise stroll along the Confederation Trail at St. Peter’s.

On another occasion my neighbours in Caribou welcomed me into their circle. It’s these small encounters that make motorhome touring feel communal rather than isolating.

I also drove the RV onto the Northumberland ferry for the short crossing between PEI and Nova Scotia — a simple way to link the islands.

Picturesque towns, live music and local flavours

Atlantic Canada’s small towns look film-ready. Many scenes from the Netflix drama Sullivan’s Crossing were shot around Halifax, and during my trip I recognised several familiar backdrops.

Pictou charmed me with its colourful fishing sheds, tartan-themed lobster souvenirs and independent shops. I caught live music at The Nook and Cranny and found excellent coffee at Sea Glass Coffee House.

Other towns worth visiting include Tatamagouche, Wolfville, Cavendish and Charlottetown — each with its own character and bright, postcard-ready streetscapes.

Food is an essential part of the journey. PEI’s potato pie at Prince Edward Island Preserve is a standout for brunch. Nova Scotia markets itself on seafood; there’s a mapped seafood trail that links lobster shacks, chowder kitchens and small harbour eateries. I ate lobster served in a vintage train dining car in Tatamagouche and sampled chowder at Paddy’s Brewpub in Wolfville.

For dessert, Cow’s ice cream in Charlottetown is a local favourite — their peach melba flavour left an impression — and Appleton Chocolate is known for maple and wild blueberry truffles.

Big skies, tidal drama and a coastline of lighthouses

Some of the most memorable moments were simply being outside at dawn and dusk. Crossing the Confederation Bridge at sunset is hard to forget, and I watched spectacular pinks and golds from Cavendish beach one morning.

Lighthouse standing on dramatic Atlantic coastline at dusk

In Nova Scotia, the Bay of Fundy delivers dramatic tidal swings. At Burntcoat Head Park the difference between low and high tide can be enormous — there are times when the ocean floor is exposed, and others when the water rises many metres to reclaim it.

Lighthouses punctuate the shoreline everywhere you look. Covehead Harbour Lighthouse on PEI, set among dunes, felt especially cinematic.

Practical information

I travelled with My Canada Trips, who organised my return flights from Dublin, one night’s accommodation in Halifax and the motorhome hire for the week. Their package included full insurance on the RV, which proved reassuring after a minor brush with overhanging branches.

There are direct seasonal flights from Dublin to Halifax operated by WestJet during the summer months.

My Canada Trips currently lists a nine‑day Atlantic Maritimes Motorhome Tour from €1,998 per person. That price includes return flights from Dublin, one night in Halifax on arrival, and seven nights’ motorhome hire with 1,000 km, linen and kitchen kits, and the platinum package. For bookings and the full itinerary, visit www.mycanadatrips.co.uk.

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