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High in the hills above Griante, a sudden opening in the trees reveals the blue sweep of one of Italy’s most iconic lakes. This is Lake Como — a place of steep mountains, grand villas and a hotel that still feels like a portal to another era.
A mountain view to the water
The path to the Church of San Martino climbs in a series of switchbacks before delivering that first wide view: calm water folding into distant peaks. The lake runs roughly 50km and plunges to about 425 metres in places, forming an upside-down Y whose central fork is the historic town of Bellagio.
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From this hillside vantage the lake’s geography reads clearly: three branches split the shoreline, each lined with pastel villages and villas tucked against the mountains. Bellagio sits where two of those arms meet and has been settled since at least the 7th century BC.
The hotel at the heart of Bellagio
Dominating the town’s waterfront is the family-run Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, the only five-star hotel in Bellagio and one of the lake’s oldest establishments. The building’s lemon-yellow façade and a band of white-and-navy umbrellas around a deep-blue pool are visible from the higher trails.
Its main block was remodelled into an opulent residence in 1854 and converted into a hotel in 1873; the Bucher family took ownership in 1918 and remain its custodians today. That continuity is evident in the hotel’s preserved interior: frescoed ceilings, Murano chandeliers, gilt mirrors and a piano that accompanies evening drinks.
The hotel counts 94 rooms, including 22 suites. One suite, visited by President John F. Kennedy in 1963, carries his name. It retains high ceilings, marble pillars and double-aspect views across the lake — a setting that lends itself to long coffees and late sunsets.
Dining, tradition and small extravagances
Dining options include Restaurante Mistral, recently renovated and led by chef Ettore Bocchia, who blends farm-to-table ingredients with an inventive approach; the menu lists a signature peacock tortellini. La Goletta serves more casual fare and a widely praised breakfast.
The hotel also offers a private beach club and direct access to the water. Guests often follow a long-standing local habit: slipping down the stone steps for a refreshing open-water swim.
On the lake
Boat travel is central to the Bellagio experience. Private speedboat trips offer a stylish perspective on the shoreline — a two-person trip with a local taxi service is quoted at €350 — while public ferries run for as little as €4.60 for single crossings. Day passes for the central lake start around €17.50, with full-lake passes up to €28.
From the water you pass villages like Varenna and Menaggio, each with its own character. The mountains that rise behind Menaggio lead quickly toward the Swiss border, underlining how close national frontiers are to these lakeshore communities.
Villas, gardens and quiet moments
Many villas on the lake are centuries old and remain private retreats for wealthy families. One such property, Villa La Cassinella, was reportedly sold this year for an estimated €90 million and is reachable only by boat.
For a public lakeside stroll, Villa Melzi d’Eril offers a neo-classical villa and formal botanical gardens. The estate, dating to 1808, provides shaded paths and framed views of the water. Admission is around €10.
When to go and practical notes
Bellagio’s streets are busiest late morning through early evening. Locals and overnight visitors tend to occupy the town before 10am and after 6pm, when the atmosphere is calmer and more authentic.
Rooms at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni are priced from roughly €800 per night in shoulder season and about €1,400 in high season, with a two-night minimum during peak periods; breakfast is included in these rates.
Why it matters: Lake Como combines dramatic alpine scenery, centuries of architectural history and easy access by water. For travellers seeking both tangible heritage and a chance to swim in famously clear lake water, Bellagio and its grand hotel remain a compelling draw.
